My Greek World: December 2012

Nafplio is located about one and a half hour’s drive from Athens, on the Peloponnese peninsula. The beautiful old city has a wealth of narrow alleyways and streets, steep stairs, taverns serving delicious Greek food, lively bars, clubs and cafés, a lovely seafront promenade, and enough sights to fill a week or two. But the best is perhaps just being in this wonderful city, watch the sun go down behind the mountains, colouring the bay red, or relax in the central square and look at the playful children, couples, friends and families enjoying food, wine or frappé - just like you.

Discover all the must-sees, walks, and other great adventures you can look forward to.

Classical music festival:

Every June, Nafplio arranges a week's festival of classical music, where musicians and orchestras from specific countries are invited.

The sites which you have to see!

Syntagma Square, the vivid heart of Nafplio -
Syntagma Square (Platia Syntagmatos) is Nafplio’s heart. Here the Nafpliots sit with a coffee in the morning, or the children play in the soft evenings, while parents and grandparents enjoy dinner, couples and friends meet over wine or beer… Syntagma means Constitution, and you will find squares by this name all over Greece. But Nafplio’s Syntagma is truly unique. The beautiful buildings, primarily in neoclassical style, create a beautiful frame around the square, and the polished marble floor reflects both sunlight and streetlights. Even in winter this is the place to be, the sheltered location between all the buildings - and strategically placed heat lamps - make the cold disappear.

The Three Admirals Square, where the king lived

Platia Trion Navachon (The Three Admirals Square) gets its name from the three admirals who fought (and won) on the Greek side in the battle of Navarino in 1827: the British Codrington, the French DeRigny and the Russian Heyden. Sir Edward Codrington later became the assistant to Lord Nelson at the Battle of Trafalgar. Many magnificent buildings in neoclassical style surround the square, including the town hall, originally Greece's first high school (from 1857), and next to it a building that originally was a pharmacy. In fact, the pharmacist, the Italian Bonifatsio Bonafin, embalmed the corpse of Kapoditrias here, after he was murdered outside the Agios Spyridon church in 1831. The so-called "little palace" once stood on the square. It used to be the home of Kapodistrias, and also Otto, Greece's first king, when he resided in Nafplio. Unfortunately, the stately house burned to the ground in 1929. Today, a statue of King Otto is erected where the little palace used to be, while Kaposistrias’ statue can be found on the square opposite, at the other side of Sigrou Street. The other monument on the Three Admiral’s square is a marble funeral monument containing the bones of Dimitrios Ypsilandis, one of the leaders of the Greek revolution.

A walk on the Great Road

"Megalos Dromos", Great Road, the Nafpliots still calls it, although it’s long ago named Vas. Konstantinos. This is the main artery through Nafplio, mainly car-free and full of life, ambience and culture. The walk we can begin at Syntagma Square. Megalos Dromos is the road that starts just to the left of the old mosque in the east of the square. This part of the Great Road offers us beautiful neo-classical buildings, lush bougainvilleas, small shops and nice cafes. You can buy clothes or jewellery, have a coffee or a light meal, and perhaps do a bit of people spotting. Soon the road leads us to The Three Admirals Square with its Town Hall, across Sygrou Street, past the Court House and Kapodistrias’ statue, and into the park, where we walk in the shade of pines and palm trees. Here is also a fenced playground for children, and Kolokotronis, which the park is named after, sitting on horseback. Out of the park, and we can continue until we reach a huge, complex intersection, Endekati. Here Megalos Dromos ends, and we are in the shopping area of the New Town and near the suburb Pronia. It was Greece's first president, Ioannis Kapodistrias, that had Megalos Dromos built on the pattern of great European cities. It originally ran from his palace on The Three Admirals Square to Syntagma.

Palamídi, the palace floating above the city

Palamidi is the fortress that dominates the city, in the sense that it almost floats on a steep hill (216 m) over Nafplio. Between 1711 and 1714 the Venetians built the castle (an amazingly short time), and this is in fact the final fortress of importance the Venetians built outside their own country. It’s also considered one of the most impressive. Yet, in 1715, one year after completion, the Turks defeated the castle.

Nafplio is one of the first cities in Greece that won independence. November 29th, 1822 a group of Greek rebels overpowered the Turks in Palamidi, and the next day the city could celebrate its freedom.

From 1840 and for nearly a hundred years, Palamidi was used as a prison, and in conjunction with this the stairs up to the castle was built. It is often said that there are 999 steps, but it's actually "only" 857. The walk is well worth the effort, the view of the city and the Argolic gulf just gets better and better. Start in the morning, when the shadow falls on the stairs, and bring water! If 857 steps are a little too overwhelming, you can drive up to the "back” of the castle via 25. Martiou Street.

Palamidi is very well preserved, and it's evocative and beautiful to walk on the worn stones, between the massive walls and buildings. Among other things you can try sitting in the freedom fighter Kolokotronis' jail cell, visit the Ag. Andreas Church and admire the eight bastions within the sturdy castle walls. The huge water tanks contribute to the city's water supply even today.

Entrance: 4 Euros (normal ticket, reduced 2e). Check opening hours on the sign at the bottom of the stairs before you begin climbing.

Bourtzi, fortress and the executioners home

The Venetians built the small fortress Bourtzi, located in the Argolic gulf and close to Nafplio, in 1471. Bourtzi was originally part of the city's defenses, and thick chains ran from the castle to the mainland to prevent enemy ships from docking. Between 1865 and 1935 Bourtzi were the executioner’s residence. The reason, of course, was that no one wanted to be neighbors with people in this profession. Later Bourtzi became a hotel / restaurant – what a contrast! Now it’s purely a tourist attraction, and has become the symbol of Nafplio. Small boats head out to the fortress, leaving from the port fairly regularly. The trip lasts only a couple of minutes, and the view towards the city is at its best just before sunset. Entrance: Free, boat trip 4 Euros

Acronafplía, from Nafplio’s youth

Nafplio's oldest castle, Acronafplía, rises at the top of the old town. Once the whole city existed within these walls. Parts of the castle was built already in the Bronze Age, and there are still remnants of these ancient walls in the western part of the castle. Acronafplia was later extended and amplified by respectively Romans, Franks, Venetians and Turks. The thick castle walls form a nice backdrop for the city, but sadly most of this castle has disappeared.

However, there are good reasons to visit Acronafplia. The view is beautiful, both to the northern parts of the city and towards the bay, and south to Arvanitia beach and the mountains of Arcadia. The eastern part of the castle is the best preserved section, so feel free to explore this section on foot, by walking off the road that runs through the castle and in between the old walls.

If you walk to the west end of the castle, past Nafplia Palace Hotel and continue until you reach a kind of roundabout, you will see a giant cactus forest to the left (south). Beautiful in the autumn with its bright yellow flowers, or with blushing fruit during winter. The fruits can be eaten, but you need thick gloves to pick and peel them.

Entrance: Free

Vouleftikon and other monumental buildings

Vouleftikon, or Parliament, is the big, gray stone building pictured above, off Syntagma Square to the south. The Turks built it in 1730 as a mosque, but later it housed the first Greek People's Assembly, which met here for the first time in 1825. Right behind Vouleftikon is Medrese, a building that used to be a Turkish religious school in connection with the mosque. The buildings was later used for, among other things, prison, but especially Vouleftikon is now carefully restored to its former glory. Vouleftikon is not usually open to the public, but once in a while you can catch a concert in the great hall, worth experiencing not only for the music! Behind Vouleftikon and Medrese, in Konstandinopouleos Street, we can find a beautiful Venetian boulding. This house has probably been the Venetian headquarters. When the Turks ruled after 1715, the shouse served as residence for the Aga Pasha, and it is also belived that the newly appointed Greek government resided here in 1924 and 1925. The Archaeological Museum at Syntagma is, as earlier mentioned, a Venetian arsenal from 1713. It’s one of the most impressive Venetian buildings existing in Nafplio, build in a kind of baroque style. The building has also been living quarters for soldiers, and was used by the Germans during World War II as their interrogation center. A very military career, in other words, reflecting in the building’s strict shape.

Narrow alleyways and steep stairs

Psaromachalas is the name of a small corner of the old town, just below Nafplia Palace Hotel, but outside Acronafplia Castle. This small area was the first place people settled when there no longer was room for everybody within the old city walls. Fishermen built the small houses here, and the name Psaromachalas means fishmonger. The narrow alleyways and modest houses still bear signs of the time they were made, and although several of them are now converted to guesthouses, this is also a traditional residential area.

But in my opininion you should also spend some time in the other residential areas in the old town, climb up and down the stairs, catch an unexpected glimpse of Bourtzi in the bay, pick a pink flower from one of the many bougainvilleas, and pop into a little corner shop. Many streets have sparse or no traffic, so it's a nice, quiet little walk - and you are never far from the nearest café.

The greenest place in Nafplio

Nafplio city park is divided in two by Megalos Dromos (Vas. Konstantinou Street), with Kolokotronis Park on one side and Railway Park on the other, but this is one park, really: Nafplio’s fine, lush city park. The area where the park now rests was originally under water and outside the old city walls.

Take a volta, a short Greek walk

Sundays the Greeks venture out for a volta, in other words, they will go for walk. The walk is to be taken in a leisurely pace, often in more or less urban environments, and during the walk it is considered preferable to stop at a cafe for a little refreshment.

Here I will give you suggestions to three such voltas, close by and in the Old Town, and they can be implemented whether it is Sunday or not.

Around Akronafplia

Stroll on a nice path around the headland almost circling the hillside below Akronafplia, the castle located above the old town. You can start your walk down by the harbor (Akti Miaouli street), and walk along the waterfront promenade towards Bourtzi. There are many cafes along the way, and it is permitted to stop at one of them, even though the trip until now only lasted a few minutes. If not, simply follow the paved road along the sea, past the breakwater and then westwards. Soon the castle rises above you and the sea shimmers just below you.

If you’re in the mood, walk up the stair to the small church of Panagitsa and the secret school, or continue your walk around the headland. Soon you’ll see Arvanitia beach, and finally arrive at the large parking lot above the beach.

Would you like to swim, go down the stairs to the right. Do you want to continue down town, walk across the parking lot and down the hill, and you’ll soon see the rebuilt city gate of Nafplio, the «Pili of Xiras» on your left. But if you’ll rather walk even further, cross the parking lot above Arvanitia and choose the steep road to your left. Soon you’ll have the panoramic view of the Old Town in front of you. Go down through the gate to get back to the Old Town, or continue further up and go inside the walls of Akronafplia. After a while you reach Nafplia Palace Hotel, and you can have your well-deserved refreshments there. If you can afford it.

Walk through Karathona

Honestly, I recommend this trip the most from the all you could arrange. Not only because it's very interesting and you will see many fantastic, scenic and breathtaking views while walking but also you can connect the trip with bike trip (the road is good quality so many runners and cyclists use it) or swimming. Grab bikini with you and enjoy sunny weather with clear, blue sea! There's very quiet beach in a half way to Karathona (Karathona is quite famous and not that pleasant) and only local Greeks know this place.

You can start your walk from the parking lot above Arvanitia (public beach) and then go on the left straight.

City park

On the outskirts of the Old Town, not far from the main bus station, a green lung is stretching east to the suburbs of Pronia and the New Town. In the park you can say hello to the statue of the independence hero Kolokotronis and his horse, and visit the old train station complete with a locomotive, a pleasant café and a large playground. It’s a short walk, so why not continue on to Pronia and experience real Greek life.

Nafplio Virtual Tour

Put on a headset, grab a map, and embark on a guided walk through the city. The voice in your rented earphones will lead you absolutely everywhere of interest, and provides many fascinating historical facts. Read more at www.nafplio-tour.gr

Mini train and the Hop on / hop off bus

If you are a more leisurely type, use the hop on / hop off bus that brings you from the harbor and on a wide trip around the town and up to Palamidi, listening to a (recorded) English speaking guide. Or, for a shorter trip, embark on the mini train that fairly regularly runs from the port, and and brings you to many of the famous sights of Nafplio.

FAQ Questions:

How can I get to Nafplio?

BY BUS

You can take a bus to Terminal A / Stathmos Kiffisos in Athens and from there another bus to Nafplio.

Bus number X93 runs from just outside El. Venizelos airport's arrival hall to Stathmos Kiffisos. Buy tickets at the airport before entering. The trip lasts somewhere between a half and one hour, depending on traffic. Price approx 5 Euros.

If you’re already in Athens, bus No. 051 from the intersection Zinonos and Menandrou Streets, south of Omonia, will bring you to Stathmos Kiffisos.

Taxi from the centre normally costs between 10 and 15 Euros, depending on where the taxi picks you up.

Stathmos Kiffisos is a major bus terminal. Find the sign that says Nafplio / Argolida, and buy your tickets there. The buses go hourly on the half hour from morning to evening (some exceptions). The journey takes two to two and a half hours, going via Corinth / Isthmos and Argos. Nafplio is the terminus. Price approx. 12 Euros.

Please note that the bus from Nafplio to Athens stops at Eleonas metro station (blue line) before it continues to Stathmos Kiffisos. From Eleonas the metro will take you to the centre, then continue to the airport. This will usually be a faster solution than to travel by bus. Just make sure you get on the right train, not all of them run all the way to the airport.

For more info about KTEL buses please read my post here.

BY TAXI

The simplest - and cheapest - is to get the hotel you will stay in in Nafplio to pre-book a taxi for you, or contact greek-taxi.gr. A taxi trip costs approximately 150 euros, and lasts a bit over one and a half hour.

BY TRAIN

It is possible to take the "Proastiakos" train from the airport to Corinth, but the train from Corinth to Nafplio is suspended at the time of writing. Yet, it will be cheaper to take a train to Corinth and taxi from there, than to use a taxi all the way from the airport. Ask the hotel you are staying in in Nafplio to book a taxi for you.

CAR RENTAL

If you rent a car at the airport, it's easy to find the way to Nafplio. From the airport you drive directly onto the motorway and follow the signs first to Elefsina, then Corinth, and finally the signs say Nafplio. The road is generally very good, except for a short distance between Corinth and Nafplio which is fairly narrow and winding. Calculate two hours if you keep the speed limit. And you do, don’t you!

BY FERRY

PIREUS - ERMIONI or PORTO HELI

There is a ferry (3.5 hours) and express ferry (2 hours) from Piraeus to both Ermioni and Porto Heli, via the Saronic islands. From Ermioni and Porto Heli you can catch the bus to Nafplio.

HYDRA/SPETSES - TOLO

In the summers, Pegasus Cruises arranges boat trips from Tolo to the islands of Hydra and Spetses. It is ususally possible to travel only one way, but arrange in advance with them.

Where can I stay, and should I book in advance?

There's a huge selection of hotels and guesthouses in Nafplio, most of them in the Old Town. Except in the summer season, it will be no problem to find a room, unless it’s Easter or a Greek holiday, as October 28. or March 25. Please be aware that a Pension doesn’t necessarily mean a lower standard, only that it doesn’t have a staffed reception around the clock. If so, you also get a key to the front door.

How’s the weather?

In July and August, you can expect relatively high temperatures, usually somewhere in the 30's, but it can be over 40. In May, June and September, temperatures are typically somewhere between 20 and 30 degrees, but they can be both higher and lower, and it may rain, but it rarely lasts long. In the other months the temperature is very variable, it can be over 20 degrees in December while April may have 10. Or vice versa. Long periods of bad weather are rare, many summers in Britain are wetter and colder than an average Nafplio winter.

Where can I eat?

Generally you’ll get good food in Nafplio. A large majority of the tourists who come here are Greek, and most restaurants reflect it: Greek quality food. Staïkopoulo is the street with the most taverns. It’s a pleasant and lively place to sit, but also the street that attracts the most foreign tourists, which may affect the quality: The menu must adapt to taste buds from many countries, and the tavern owners also know that you probably won’t be back. But by all means, there are good taverns in this street too.

At the harbour promenade along the Bouboulinas, fish is the usual fare, but you’ll find other food, too. Most other taverns are located in Yialos, the streets between Syntagma Square and the waterfront, and although they may not have as spectacular scenery as those we have mentioned above, many offer excellent food.

When are the shops open?

It’s impossible to give exact times, but generally they’re open from nine or ten to two or half past two every day except Sunday. Tuesday, Thursday and Friday they open again from about six to about nine. But there are many exceptions; in the Old Town shops are usually open from morning until late evening, with no siesta and seven days a week, at least during summer. The Super Market in the Old Town is called Carrefour, also open all day, but closed Sunday. It’s located in the port end of Sigrou Street.

And what about post and bank?

The Post Office, located at the intersection Sigrou / Sidiras Merarchias, is open eight to two, Banks have the same opening hours, except that closing time Friday is half past one. Post and banks are closed Saturday and Sunday. There is an abundance of ATMs, but a lot of shops do not accept credit cards. NB: There are exceptions to these opening hours, so check when you are in town if necessary.

Do you have any more questions? Ask me in the comment!